REGAL RIOJA – THE KING OF SPANISH WINES FEBRUARY 2013
I was recently given a bottle of Campo Viejo Gran Reserva
Rioja by a generous friend and at a Burns Supper a Paisley Callants Rotarian
mentioned that Rioja was always his first choice. So I thought that I would
ring the changes and concentrate on one wine region this month – Rioja,
which makes brilliant red wines and is regarded as the King of Spanish wines.
GENERAL INFO
Rioja is widely regarded as the
premier wine region of Spain and has been making good quality wines for
hundreds of years. It is located in the north of the country and produces
medium and full flavoured reds with a hint of vanilla from aging in oak
barriques. Most Riojas are made from Tempranillo or a blend of Tempranillo and
Garnacha grapes which deliver smooth, dry, medium weight wines with strawberry
and raspberry fruits. Rioja goes well with most meats especially lamb. Some
Reserva and Gran Reserva wines can provide a much heavier and full flavoured
mouthful with a long silky finish. Rioja Alta and Alavesa produce most of the
best Reserva and Gran Reserva wines.
Due to aging in both oak and
bottle Riojas are best drunk when they are at least two years old to allow the
inherent tannins to mellow. Best recent vintages at affordable prices are 2004,
2005, 2006 and coming soon 2010. Most Riojas will benefit from decanting at
least one hour before drinking and should be served at room temperature.
LABELLING GUIDANCE
Spanish labelling and legal requirements are very helpful
when choosing Rioja.
Joven - wines are very young with
little barrel or bottle aging
Cosecha – simply means vintage
and generally applies to newer and younger wines.
Crianza – a wine at least two
years old. Crianza has generally spent a year in oak barrels and a further year
in the bodega or bottle.
Reserva – a better quality wine
which is a minimum of 3 years old with at least one year in oak barrels.
Gran Reserva – the best quality
wine. Wines must be at least 5 years old and have spent at least 2 years in oak
barrels.
POPULAR BRANDS
Some popular brands which provide
a wide range of styles are: Campo Viejo, Marques de Riscal, Marques de Murrieta,
Marques de Caceres, Lagunilla and some Berberana offerings.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Berberana Rioja Gran
Reserva 75cl – 2004 *** Star Buy***
This vintage is a classic example
of a very fine Rioja. Berberana Rioja Reserva 2004 is rich and smooth with
black cherry and bramble flavours and spicy vanilla oak. This soft, rounded
garnet red Rioja has notes of cedar and cinnamon, so it's perfect for anyone
cooking a lamb dish. It has a lovely delivery in the mouth, very complete and
supple. It is smooth, elegant and refined for such a big wine. Decant in
advance to make the most of the red-berry aromas and a lovely complex, smooth
finish. Discounted by 50% at Tesco Online this is on offer at £7.50 and is a
fab wine for the money.
Campo Viejo Rioja
Crianza 75cl - 2007
This medium bodied wine is smooth
and elegant. It has intense aromas of plums, cherries, hints of strawberries
and toasty vanillin oak. Available in most supermarkets and recognised by its
yellow label. Priced at about £8.50 is often found on special. Currently
available in Sainsbury’s at £6.00, Tesco at £6.29, Waitrose at £6.63 and Morrisons
at £8.29. For just over £6 this is a good every day Rioja but better to trade
up to the Reserva or Gran Reserva versions of Campo Viejo.
Campo Viejo Rioja
Reserva 75cl – 2007 *** Star Buy***
This Reserva is 5 years old and
is the Crianza’s big brother. It is more elegant, with a smooth, rounded,
medium bodied taste. Garnet ruby red in colour with brick coloured rim it
exudes aromas of ripe berries and vanilla. Great balance between the fruit
(cherries, black plums, ripe blackberries) and the clean nuances coming from
the wood (clove, pepper, vanilla and coconut). Smooth and balanced on the
palate with a full, elegant feel and a long, lingering finish. Open this wine
and decant and you will be impressed by the smoothness. Don’t let the orange label
put you off as this is a brilliant wine for the money. Normally priced at £12
to £14 this wine is on offer at Tesco for £6.99 and at Asda for £7.48
Campo Viejo Rioja Gran
Reserva 75cl – 2004
This Gran Reserva is 9 years old
and is the sophisticated oldest brother of Campo Viejo Riojas. It is everything
that the Reserva has and a bit more. Older, smoother and a quality wine. Worth
spending a bit more for a special occasion. Sometimes on offer you can find it
at Sainsbury’s for £15.59 and Tesco for £16.
Lagunilla Rioja
Reserva – 2006
Lagunilla is mainly a supermarket
brand which is regularly on a half price offer, especially at Morisons. This is
a full bodied Rioja with meaty & aromatic flavours. Cherry red in colour
with toasty aromas, smooth and round with wild forest fruits on the palate,
soft tannins with notes of oak and a long lingering finish. Easy to recognise
from its blue label it is normally offered in supermarkets at a full price of
£13 and is in Morrison’s currently at £7.00. You won’t be disappointed with the
2006 reserva but the 2007 is not just as reliable. Its’ big brother Lagunilla
Gran Reserva (with a black label) is an excellent wine and comes highly
recommended at around £15
Faustino VII Rioja
75cl - 2010
This wine has a beautiful label for an unclassified Rioja. I haven’t
tried this vintage as Faustino VII can be great in good years but fairly light
bodied in others. Its a young wine Faustino describe this as having rich jammy
fruits with slight hints of sweetness, vanilla and spice on the finish,
evidence of the 10 months it has spent in new American oak. At Asda this is on
offer at £5.00. This wine’s big brothers Faustino V Rioja Reserva and Faustino
I are fantastic wines for around £11 to £13 come highly recommended.
